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Brioche

If I had a dollar for every time I went to a cafe and complained about the lack of gluten-free options, well, I wouldn’t be rich, but I’d probably have about $50. Since going gluten-free, I don’t go out for breakfast nearly as much as I used to.  Once upon a time, eating out was one of my favourite weekend rituals, but finding cafes that cater for gluten-intolerants can be challenging in Sydney.  Until now, that is.

Balmain's new gluten-free bakery

Brioche is located at 349 Darling Street, Balmain

Introducing Brioche. This bakery-cum-cafe has just opened its doors in the funky inner-west suburb of Balmain.  It’s heaven on a stick for people with food sensitivities.   I recently paid it a visit and had a chat with its lovely owner, Fiona Wilkinson.  As a Coeliac and someone who’s allergic to dairy and preservatives, Fiona is well versed in the tribulations of eating out in Sydney.   “I think there’s a lot of people out there who aren’t being catered for.  And unlike 10 years ago when people didn’t really understand (Coeliac Disease), these days people do really understand it, so I really wanted to do something to cater for those who I think are being missed out,” says Fiona.

Brioche the Bakery

You'll find lots of delicious baked goods on the front counter.

Brioche offers “normal” bread for “normal” people as well as a healthy dose of gluten-free options.  I’m talking gluten-free olive bread, sourdough, sultana loaf, multi-seed loaf and rolls.  And if you’re like me and really miss being able to order a sandwich when you’re out and about, for just a dollar extra, you can have gluten-free bread with your sanger.  The poached chicken sandwich with olive tapenade, rocket and roast tomato looked really good – and they tell me it’s low GI.

While all the regular breads are made on-site by the two full-time bakers who are known to work from midnight to 5am (ouch), the gluten-free stuff is bought from a specialist Queensland bakery called Zehnder.  Fiona said they’re in the process of perfecting their gluten-free loaves.  All the other gluten-free goodies, like the spelt croissants (they’re delicious); giant marshmallows; sausage rolls and pies (really good); berry, goji and chia muffins (you’d never know they’re gluten-free); and the great selection of cakes and banana bread are made on-site.

Spelt croissant

A spelt croissant at Brioche. It wasn't as light as a regular croissant, but it went down very nicely with my cup of tea.

Gluten-free banana chia bread

Gluten-free banana chia bread. I didn't try it, but it looked and smelt lovely.

Polenta date sultana cake

The only problem with Brioche's gluten-free polenta date sultana cake is that it's very easy to eat.

If this place is really successful, Fiona would definitely like to open a second one, but she thinks it’s going to take six months just to get this model right.  I asked if she’d open an outlet in Bondi just for me, but she said their concept is too untested at this stage to take on the likes of my neighbourhood.  Dammit!

The good news is Fiona was kind enough to share her favourite cake recipe with Food Crush.  It’s a low-GI pistachio and apple cake.  I whipped up my own adaptation of it this week and took it into work.  My workmates loved it.  Stay tuned next week for the recipe.  You won’t be disappointed!


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Gluten-free bread

What superpower would you most like to have? Laser vision, mind control, healing hands, psychic vibrations? Call me boring, but I would love the ability to squeeze more hours out of my day. Just three more hours would be ideal. Enough time to have an extra hour’s sleep, walk more slowly and write, cook and eat more. Superpowers aside, I recently found an antidote to my busy life – a little something to slow it down a notch or two. It’s called bread making and it works wonders.

I used to marvel at people who make their own bread – in the same way I am awed by people who exercise in the morning. While I am unlikely to ever uncover the secret to early morning exercise, I am pleased to say I have embraced my inner baker. And it was a whole lot easier than I imagined.

If it wasn’t for kissing gluten goodbye, I would have remained oblivious to the joys of bread making. Gluten eaters are spoilt for choice here in Sydney with more than a smattering of good artisan bakeries like Sonoma and Brasserie Bread sprouting up all over town. The gluten-challenged among us, mind you, are left out in the cold when it comes to gluten-free options. It seems most cafes, restaurants and bakeries are positively obsessed with the stuff. And don’t get me started on the gluten-free bread they sell in supermarkets. I’m yet to find a good one.

To set things right, I decided to take matters into my own hands and make my own bread. There’s something  positively grounding about making a loaf of bread from scratch – from mixing the flour and kneading the dough to watching it rise and seeing the finished product greet you from the oven door. I challenge you to feel stressed while kneading dough. It’s simply not possible. And what’s not to love about the smell of freshly baked bread wafting through the house?

If you like the idea of homemade bread, but you’re more likely to travel to Mars and back than whip up a loaf from scratch, I have a toy that might be right up your alley. It’s called a bread making machine. It does all the kneading and rising for you, leaving you more time to do important things like read the paper, paint your nails, watch Mad Men and the like.

Breville recently leant me their whiz bang bread making machine for a test run. It’s called the Custom Loaf Pro and boy is it big! If, like me, you have a poor excuse for a kitchen, you might as well stop reading this now as the machine will dwarf your kitchen and gobble up most of your precious bench space. But if you’re one of those really annoying people (who I aspire to be one day) who has a kitchen bigger than Paris Hilton’s handbag collection, then keep reading.

So, what’s so special about this Breville bread maker? Well, it has a few cool features, like gluten and yeast-free settings and an automatic fruit and nut dispenser that adds ingredients at just the right time in the kneading cycle. There’s also a pause function that allows you to create decorative crusts or a glazed finish. It gives you four loaf sizes to choose from (500g up to 1.25kg) and three crust settings. It also features a collapsible kneading paddle which folds down after mixing to maximise the loaf size and make it easier to remove the bread after baking.

Another feature is the 13-hour delay start timer so you can wake to the scent of freshly baked bread. Good in theory, but the timer doesn’t work with the gluten-free setting, so it’s not much use to people like me. Sob.

So, what’s the verdict? If you’re bread crazed and have a huge kitchen and bake on a regular basis, then you would be wise to consider investing in this fancy machine for $349.95 RRP. For me, I’m sticking with old-fashioned bread making. It’s good for my mental health and my kitchen bench space.

Here’s a recipe for gluten-free wholesome seed bread that I’ve baked on two occasions with the help of the Custom Loaf Pro. The texture is light and the crust is crunchy. And I love the addition of cumin as it imparts an aromatic flavour throughout the bread. The bread goes nicely with pea, lettuce and tarragon soup.

Gluten-free wholesome seed bread

Makes 1.25kg

Wet ingredients:

200ml gluten-free soy milk
200ml water
3 tbs olive oil
3 eggs
1 tsp white wine vinegar

Dry ingredients:

2 cups white rice flour
11/4 cups potato flour
1/3 cup soy flour
1/2 cup tapioca flour (arrowroot)
pinch salt
1 tbs xanthan gum
1/4 cup LSA mix
2 tbs cumin or caraway seeds
2 tsp gluten-free yeast

Method:

Mix liquid ingredients together in a small bowl. Do not use electric mixer as this will aerate the mixture.

Mix dry ingredients together in a large bowl. Using a pliable spatula, combine liquid and dry ingredients. Mix to a soft dough ensuring all ingredients are well combined. Fold in additions if applicable.

Spoon dough into bread pan, pressing down a spatula after each spoonful, to eliminate air bubbles. Insert bread pan into baking chamber.

Press ‘SELECT’ to access GLUTEN-FREE setting.

Press ‘LOAF SIZE’ to 1000g if required.

Press ‘START/PAUSE’ to commence operation.

At the end of the setting, press ‘STOP’.

Remove bread from the bread machine and bread pan. Cool bread on a rack.

Top tips: To achieve a well-risen and well-baked loaf, check the dough when mixing. If it appears too dry, add 1-2 tsp of water extra. If it appear to runny, check the correct amount of Xantham gum has been added, otherwise add 1-2 tbs rice flour extra.

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Wheat-free soda bread

The one thing I’ve missed the most since going wheat-free is pizza and red wine bread. Admittedly, I’ve missed the convenience of bread as much as the taste and smell of it. No toast for breakfast; no sandwiches for lunch; no bread to dip into my soup; no popping down to the bakery on my bicycle wearing a striped top and a red beret and grabbing a baguette. Needless to say, it has been a tough gig and I’d really prefer not to live without bread.

Bread and I were reunited on the weekend. No, I didn’t buckle at the wafts of hot bread lingering from Brasserie Bread. My in-house baker (Paul) worked out how to make wheat-free soda bread. I’m talking no wheat and no yeast. And yes, it’s delicious. Maybe after months of going without bread I have forgotten how it’s meant to taste, but if you ask me, this wheat and yeast-free stuff is amazing. And what’s even better is it’s easy to make. Paul whips it up in less than 15 mins (plus about 40 mins cooking time).

So, what is soda bread? It’s a quick bread that uses baking soda instead of yeast. It usually contains buttermilk, but in the interests of being dairy-free, Paul used soy milk instead.

Wheat-free soda bread

Wheat-free soda bread

Paul’s wheat-free soda bread

Dry ingredients:

1 cup millet flour
1.5 cup gluten free or rice flour
1/2 cup potato starch or tapioca
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 teaspoons xanthan gum

Wet ingredients:

1 1/2 cups of rice or soy milk.
2 tablespoons light olive oil or canola oil

Or for a seedy loaf:

5 tablespoons of mixed seeds (4 to be mixed with the dry ingredients and one for the topping)

Method:

Preheat oven to 200C.  Flour a baking tray.

Sift the dry ingredients into a large mixing bowl.  Mix in 4 tablespoons of the seeds if creating the seedy loaf.

Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients.  Slowly pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients; gently mixing as you go, I use a spatula to do this.

If you need a little more milk to moisten the dough, add a tablespoon at a time and stir in.

When the dough is evenly moist, turn out onto a lightly floured work surface.  Kneed gently for one minute to mix in the extra ingredients.

Move the dough to the prepared tray; and using moist or rice-floured palms, flatten and shape the dough into a rounded loaf. Sprinkle with a very light dusting of rice or gluten free flour, or if you are creating the seedy loaf brush the loaf with milk and sprinkle with the seeds.

Using a dry sharp knife, slice a cross into the dough.

Place the tray into the centre of the preheated oven. Bake for about 40-45 minutes, until the loaf is crusty and sounds hollow when thumped on the base.

Either cool on a wire rack if you like a crusty loaf or wrapped in cloth if you prefer a softer loaf.

If you like this soda bread recipe, you might also like Paul’s hot cross buns recipe.

So, tell me, could you live without bread or would that be a life not worth living?

 


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