If I had a dollar for every time I went to a cafe and complained about the lack of gluten-free options, well, I wouldn’t be rich, but I’d probably have about $50. Since going gluten-free, I don’t go out for breakfast nearly as much as I used to. Once upon a time, eating out was one of my favourite weekend rituals, but finding cafes that cater for gluten-intolerants can be challenging in Sydney. Until now, that is.
Introducing Brioche. This bakery-cum-cafe has just opened its doors in the funky inner-west suburb of Balmain. It’s heaven on a stick for people with food sensitivities. I recently paid it a visit and had a chat with its lovely owner, Fiona Wilkinson. As a Coeliac and someone who’s allergic to dairy and preservatives, Fiona is well versed in the tribulations of eating out in Sydney. “I think there’s a lot of people out there who aren’t being catered for. And unlike 10 years ago when people didn’t really understand (Coeliac Disease), these days people do really understand it, so I really wanted to do something to cater for those who I think are being missed out,” says Fiona.
Brioche offers “normal” bread for “normal” people as well as a healthy dose of gluten-free options. I’m talking gluten-free olive bread, sourdough, sultana loaf, multi-seed loaf and rolls. And if you’re like me and really miss being able to order a sandwich when you’re out and about, for just a dollar extra, you can have gluten-free bread with your sanger. The poached chicken sandwich with olive tapenade, rocket and roast tomato looked really good – and they tell me it’s low GI.
While all the regular breads are made on-site by the two full-time bakers who are known to work from midnight to 5am (ouch), the gluten-free stuff is bought from a specialist Queensland bakery called Zehnder. Fiona said they’re in the process of perfecting their gluten-free loaves. All the other gluten-free goodies, like the spelt croissants (they’re delicious); giant marshmallows; sausage rolls and pies (really good); berry, goji and chia muffins (you’d never know they’re gluten-free); and the great selection of cakes and banana bread are made on-site.

A spelt croissant at Brioche. It wasn't as light as a regular croissant, but it went down very nicely with my cup of tea.

The only problem with Brioche's gluten-free polenta date sultana cake is that it's very easy to eat.
If this place is really successful, Fiona would definitely like to open a second one, but she thinks it’s going to take six months just to get this model right. I asked if she’d open an outlet in Bondi just for me, but she said their concept is too untested at this stage to take on the likes of my neighbourhood. Dammit!
The good news is Fiona was kind enough to share her favourite cake recipe with Food Crush. It’s a low-GI pistachio and apple cake. I whipped up my own adaptation of it this week and took it into work. My workmates loved it. Stay tuned next week for the recipe. You won’t be disappointed!











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